Mahabalipuram
Globally renown for its shore temples, Mahabalipuramwas the second capital
of the Pallava kings of Kanchipuram. 58 kilometres from Madras on the Bay
of Bengal, this tinysea - side village of Mahabalipuram, is set in a boulder
- strewn landscape. Tourists are drawn to this place by its miles of unspoiled
beachand rock-cut art. The sculpture, here, is particularly interesting
because it shows scenes of day-to- day life, in contrast with the rest of
the state of TamilNadu, where the carvings generally depict gods and goddesses
Mahabalipuram art can be divided intofour categories : open air bas - relief,
structured temples, man-made caves and rathas ('chariots' carved from single
boulders, to resembletemples or chariots used in temple processions).The
famous Arjuna's Penance and the Krishna Mandapa, adorn massive rocksnear
the centre of the village. The beautiful Shore Temple towers over the waves,
behind a protective breakwater. Sixteen man-made caves in different stages
of completionare also seen, scattered through the area.
History
The temples of Mamallapuram, builtlargely during the reigns of Narasimhavarman
and his successor Rajasimhavarman, showcase the movement from rock-cut architecture
to structural building. The mandapas or pavilions and the rathas or shrines
shaped as temple chariots are hewn from the granite rock face, while the
famed ShoreTemple, erected half a century later,is built from dressed what
makes Mamallapuram so culturally resonant are the influences it absorbs
and disseminates.
All but one of the rathas from the firstphase of Pallava architecture are
modelled on the Budhist viharas or monasteries and chaitya halls with several
cells arranged around a courtyard. Art historian Percy Brown, in fact, traces
the possible roots of the Pallavan Mandapas to the similar rock-cut caves
of Ajanta and Ellora. Referringto Narasimhavarman's victory in AD 642 over
the Chalukyan king Pulakesin II, Brown says the Pallavan king may have brought
the sculptors and artisans back to Kanchi and Mamallapuram as 'spoils of
war'.
Temples in Mahabalipuram
There are, or rather were, two low hills inMahabalipuram, about 400m from
the sea. In the larger one, on both sides, there are eleven excavated temples,
called Mandapas, two "open air bas reliefs", one of which is unfinished,
and a third enclosed one. Out of a big rock standing free nearby there is
a "cut out" temple, called a "Ratha". This type is unique
to Mahabalipuram.
Out of the other hill, much smaller and standing about 200m to the south,
are fashioned five more rathas, and three big sculptures of a Nandi, a Loin
and an Elephant. On the top of the biggerhill there is a structural temple,
and a little distance the magnificent beginnings of a Vijayanagar Gopura
and also survivals of what is believed to be a palace.
- Shore Temple
Perched on a rocky outcrop, it presides overthe shoreline, serving,
as Percy Brown puts its, 'a landmark by day and a beacon by night'.
Designed to catch the first rays of the rising sun and to illuminate
the waters after dark, the temple ended up with an unusual lay-out.
As the main shrine faces the sea onthe east, the gateway, the fore count
and the assembly hall of the Shore Temple all lie behind the sanctum.
Unusual, too, is the fact that the temple has shrine to bothShiva and
Vishnu. The main sanctum and one of the two lesser ones on the west
are dedicated to Shiva. The enclosing wall has a series of Nandi bulls
on it.
Interconnected cisterns around the temple meant thatthe sea could be
let in to transform the temple into a water shrine. But, in recent times,
a stone wall as been added to protect the shrine from the rising seas
and further erosion.
- Rathas

The eight rathas are monolithic templesfashioned as chariots. They remain
an architectural mystery, for each is apparently a faithful reproduction
of a structure built of wood. In fact, even the grain of the timber
beams and rafters has been simulated in stone.
Of the eight rathas, five have been namedfor the Pandava brothers, the
heroes of the epic Mahabharata, and their shared wife, Draupadi. The
largest is the Dharmaraja ratha and it sets the tone for the others.
Modelled on a Buddhist vihara or monastery, it sports a square hall
topped by a vaulting roof. The Bhima, Arjuna and Nakula-Sahdeva rathas
are lesser copies of the Dharmaraja ratha.
The Draupadi ratha is the smallest and thequaintest. It is simple structure,
fashioned as a thatched hut borned on the backs of elephants and lions.
It was probably the fascimile of a portable village shrine.
The fact that many of the temples andsculptures of Mamallapuram are
unfinished, points to the sudden withdrawal of patronage from rock-cut
temples when King Rajasimhavarman came to power.
How to get there
- Air
Chennai (58-km) is the nearest airport with both domestic and international
terminus. Chennai is connected with all the major places in India through
the numerous domestic flights. International flights operate from various
parts of the world to Chennai.
- Rail
The nearest railway stations are Chengalpattu (29-km) and Chennai (58-km).
From these stations one has to take road to reach the Mahabalipuram.
- Road
Buses are available from Pondicherry, Kanchipuram, Chengalpattu and
Chennai to Mahabalipuram daily. The road to Mahabalipuram is good. Tourists
can also hire a taxi from Chennai.
Mahabalipuram, Religious Places in India
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